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Let us begin with a brief outline of the geography and history of our beautiful state and its fascinating capital city, followed by How to Get There and What to See and Do. You can also see a calendar of interesting fiestas in the city and nearby villages, as well as special events and a separate section on Oaxaca's Wonderful Weather.
If you would like more detailed information or have specific questions, you can visit the State Tourism Office's excellent page at http://www.simplymexico.com/forums/index.php?f=11&custom=oaxacalive, you may Ask Maria or consult one of the many guide books and histories available in book stores and libraries.

The state of Oaxaca is nestled among the mountains and valleys of the Sierra Madre Sur and Sierra Madre Oriental ranges with a total area of 95,364 square kilometers - approximately the same size as Hungary or the state of Indiana in the United States.
It is the fifth largest state in the Republic, extending from the Pacific Ocean almost to the Gulf of Mexico, with a tremendous biodiversity of some 10,000 species, due to its many microclimates. At latitudes between 16 and 18 degrees above the equator, climatic conditions vary from subtropical to tropical depending on altitudes which range from sea level on the Pacific coast to a high of 3720 meters at Cerro Nube in the Sierra Sur which separates the Central Valleys from the coast.

Verdant mountain valleys, desertic plains, tropical forest, 500 kilometers of beaches, colonial cities and 10,000-plus villages - these are but some of the many features of this fascinating area of ancient Mesoamerica. More than ten thousand years of history, tradition and culture enrich the original sixteen ethnic groups as well as the latecomers such as: the Aztecs who arrived and established outposts and garrisons in the mid Fifteenth Century and the Spaniards who began their invasions of Oaxacan territory as early as 1520 which resulted in the introduction of the negro race and the mestizos. All of these late additions to the ethnic makeup of the state have contributed to and enjoy the incredibly rich cultural aspects of the total population.

During the three millennia prior to 1436 the most powerful and influential of the sixteen groups were the Zapotec, the Mixtec and the Mixe. While theirs was an important culture, the Mixe stayed within their mountain fastness and did not seek to expand their territory. The Zapotec dominated the areas in the central valleys, the Sierra Norte outside the Mixe territory and the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, while the Mixtec ruled in the Sierra Madre from the present border with Puebla and Guerrero to the Pacific as far as Tututepec. The civilization achieved by these groups and the many monuments left by them all over the state include such important archeological sites as Monte Albán, Mitla, Cerro de Minas, Guiengola, Huijatzoo, and many others which are still being explored by the archeologists and anthropologists.

The influences changed when the Aztecs settled around the Cerro del Fortín and down to the present Church of Carmen Alto where their temple was located. The name of the state comes from the Nahuatl designation they gave to the Central Valley around the capital - "Huaxyácac" or place of the huaje trees because of the great number of this species of the leucaena.

As the Spanish who arrived less than a century later found this difficult to pronounce it evolved into the present name of Oaxaca, for the city and for the state. The settlement founded by the Spanish in 1521 as Segura de la Frontera, later known as Nueva Antequera, was officially raised to the category of a royal city in 1532 by decree of Emperor Carlos V with the name of Antequera de Guaxaca. (Also, one of the titles which Hernán Cortés took for himself was that of the Marques del Valle de Guaxaca, although its boundaries did not correspond with those of the present state.)

Because of its strategic location as gateway to Central and South America via Tehuantepec, its rich and fertile lands, its fabled gold, colorants of cochineal and caracol púrpura, as well as its exquisite textiles, Oaxaca acquired great importance during the colonial period. The first of the religious orders to arrive were the Dominicans who promptly converted all the natives who then provided the labor and much of the artistic expression to build the magnificent temples such as Santo Domingo de Guzman, Santa Catalina de Siena (now the Hotel Camino Real) in the city and those at Cuilapam, Yanhuitlan, Teposcolula Tlacochahuaya and Coixtlahuaca, among many others which merit a visit.

When the winds of Independence blew throughout Ibero-America in the then colonies of Spain and Portugal, Oaxaca was in the forefront of freedom seekers who followed Hidalgo and especially Morelos in the eleven-year struggle against the forces of Spain. When the short-lived Mexican Empire under Iturbide was rejected, Oaxaca was again among the first to support the change and in fact Oaxaca was declared a Free and Sovereign State of the Mexican Republic in 1823 ­ before the Republic was constituted in 1824. It was also in Oaxaca where the first Civil Code in all Ibero-America was published, in three sections beginning in 1823.

From the time of Independence the state has maintained basically the same boundaries with a current population of slightly less than 3.5 million, while the capital city of Oaxaca has grown in size and number of inhabitants, from 17,000 in 1824 to approximately 500,000 today.

For those who wish more detail about the history and development of Oaxaca, there are many excellent sources available. You may wish to consult our Ask María Forum for orientation.

And now for the What to See and Do and How to Get There commentary you have been waiting for. It is not practical to cover all the possibilities for the entire state in this format; such a document would be so long and detailed that no one would have the time to wade through it to find specific information. We will attempt to cover the most important highlights and suggest that you take advantage of the Oaxaca Bulletin Board or the Ask María Forum for any specific details you may wish.

HOW TO GET THERE

Central Valleys
The capital of the State is the City of Oaxaca, located in the Central Valleys approximately 325 miles southeast of Mexico City. There are three highways from Mexico City ­ the Panamerican (190), Highway 131 and the new Super Toll Highway (135D). Although the distance is about the same, the driving time via the first two is nearly double that of the Super Highway ­ average ten hours versus five on the toll road. The reason for the difference is that the first two take "natural" routes through the mountains while the toll road was blasted out where necessary to make a route with fewer curves which permits high speed driving. There are many bus services connecting the two cities ­ most of them via the Toll Road with a transit time of six hours. Prices start at around US$25 one way, up to about US$40 for the super luxury UNO Line. There is also a minimum of five flights daily with Mexicana and Aeromexico, with additional flights during high tourist seasons. "Normal" round trip cost is approximately US$200 but there are sometimes special promotions. There is currently no train service due to the reorganization and privatization of the national railway system now taking place.

Beach
There are three principal beach/resort areas on the Pacific Coast ­ Surfer's paradise of Puerto Escondido, Puerto Angel with its famous/infamous Zipolite Beach, and the new "planned" resort of Bahias de Huatulco. There are airports at Puerto Escondido and Huatulco, about 120 kilometers apart, with Puerto Angel slightly above the halfway point along the coastal highway (Fed. 200). There is bus service from Mexico City via Acapulco (a long ride of some 12 or more hours at a cost of US$40) or from the city of Oaxaca in tourist, first or second class buses( 6-10 hours depending on route and destination at a cost of US$10-20), as well as air taxi service (20-30 minutes at a cost of around US$125 one way).

Isthmus of Tehuantepec
The port of Salina Cruz and the cities of Tehuantepec and Juchitan are accessible by bus from the city of Oaxaca (4-5 hours at aprox. US$10-15)

WHAT TO SEE/WHAT TO DO

Central Valleys
The city of Oaxaca is the focal point not only for the lovely colonial city and nearby archeological sites but also for the many villages where you may find precious artesanías - handcrafts made by the local artisans in the traditional style of many centuries. We will list just a few of the "don't miss" points.

In the City
Zócalo the main plaza and heart of the city with its trees, fountains, bandstand, sidewalk cafes. Relax with a "cafecito" and enjoy all the movement of the living Oaxaca, then just a block to the south you will find the

Benito Juárez Market The oldest market in the city, with fruits, vegetables,meat, fish, cheeses, household necessities and clothing, both modern and typical, and in the next block the

20 de Noviembre Market with its pan de yema and puestos which serve excellent Oaxacan food.

Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church and Cultural Complex ­ Begun in 1532 under the auspices of the Dominican Order, this is one of the most magnificent baroque churches not only in Latin America but in the world. The recent renovation has made a wonderful museum of the former cloister and begun an ethnobotanical garden which will ultimately include many of the native plants and herbs used in traditional medicine. Whether you make two or three visits to appreciate everything fully or one long one, this is a definite don't miss!

The basilica of La Soledad, the Cathedral, San Felipe Neri, Carmen Alto are only some of the churches which rate a special visit.

The Museo de Arte Contemporaneo (MACO), the Rufino Tamayo Prehispanic Museum, the Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca, the House of Juárez are among the other excellent museums boasted by our capital city.

Archeological Zones
Monte Albán - Built on a mountaintop overlooking the present city of Oaxaca by the Zapotecs and later occupied by the Mixtecs, this is one of the most important sites in all of Mesoamerica. The museum has information about the site and exhibits of artifacts found there. There are city buses, tour buses, guided tours or you may drive your own vehicle. There is parking, a cafeteria and a gift shop. The treasure of Tomb 7 found there by Alfonso Caso is on exhibit at the Museum in the Santo Domingo Complex.

Mitla is approximately 40 kilometers from the city and was a very important Zapotec city and religious center. It was here that Cosijoeza, last of the Zapotec rulers, was seized by the Spanish Inquisition for presiding at "pagan" rites. He was taken to Mexico City for the Auto de Fe, released with the case not proven but died on his return journey to Oaxaca. Many say he was poisoned by the Inquisitors. The catholic temple in Mitla was built on top of the Zapotec monuments, utilizing much of the material from the earlier structures which were virtually destroyed by the Spanish. There are second class buses, tour buses, taxis, or you may drive your own car.

Yagul, Dainzu, Lambityeco are other Zapotec sites along the route to Mitla and Huijatzoo or Cerro de la Campana is another very important site guarding the entrance into the central valley, between the villages of Suchilquitongo and Huitzo. There has been very little excavation in this area, which is enormous, but you will find a community museum in Suchilquitongo and exhibits from a tomb discovered just a few years ago in Huitzo.

For those interested in more detailed archeological information, there are a number of publications available in the book stores and in the libraries of the State, of the Welte Institute, of the Instituto Nacional de Antropologia e Historia (INAH) and of the Instituto de Artes Gráficos de Oaxaca (IAGO).

Sixteenth Century Temples
These are some of the more imposing churches within a comfortable radius of the city:
San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya - about 20 kilometers
San Pedro & San Pablo Teposcolula - about 130 kilometers
Yanhuitlán - about 110 kilometers
San Juan Bautista Coixtlhuaca - about 140 kilometers

Nearby Villages famous for their hand crafts
Teotitlán del Valle is a lovely village at the foot of the mountains where the majority of the population weaves the beautiful wool sarapes, rugs and wall hangings in traditional as well as modern and original designs. Some of the weavers still card and dye the wool by hand, using natural vegetable and insect dyes such as the famous cochineal. There are two restaurants in the village for those who want to spend most of the day there. There are second class buses, taxis or you may drive the aprox. 29 kilometers.

Santa Ana del Valle and San Miguel del Valle are two villages whose weavers and rugs are not so well known but worth a visit. They are off the highway just at Tlacolula, around 35 kilometers from Oaxaca.

San Bartolo Coyotepec, famous for its black pottery, is less than 15 kilometers from the city. These beautiful and unique ceramics are made by many of the villagers and it is possible to see demonstrations at several of the locales, including the factory of Doña Rosa, the woman who, with her talent and polishing technique, contributed so much to the renown of Coyotepec.

Santa María Atzompa, less than 10 kilometers from Oaxaca, is also a village of potters who produce plain and "embroidered" natural, green vitrified and the more recent style finished in colors. There is an artisan's market in the village and most of the families participate in the traditional craft.

Just outside Tlacolula is the village of Tlapazola where vessels and comals of reddish clay are produced. From the Sierra Norte and the Mixe region come the pieces made in Tavehua, Mixistlán and Tierra Caliente. Though the villages are not so easy of access, you can find examples of their work in many shops in Oaxaca. Other interesting work is done in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and in Tamazola.

San Martin Tilcajete, San Antonio Arrazola and La Union Tejalapan are the three villages best known for the colorful wood fantasy carvings first popularized by Manuel Jimenez of Arrazola more than 30 years ago. There you will find the artisans mentioned in the articles and books published about this art form. There is also a group in el Taviche who carve in similar style and two totally dissimilar styles produced by the Blas family of San Pedro Cajonos and by the group called Tribus Mixes whose work was not previously shown locally but can be now be seen in the city or purchased for export.

Santo Tomás Jalieza produces cotton textiles, principally belts, purses, table runners and placemats of excellent quality and design.

San Antonino de Castillo Velasco is famous for its richly embroidered and "deshilado" cotton dresses, distinguishable by the circle of embroidery under the arm. Also in this village the flor inmortal is grown, dried and fashioned into many shapes.

Oaxaca has long been noted for its excellent cotton textiles and in fact part of the tribute exacted, first by the Aztecs and later by the Spaniards, consisted of fabulous quantities of cloth and garments. For thousands of years all cloth was woven on telares de cintura which, as the name implies, were tied at one end to a stake or tree and the other around the waist of the weaver. The Spanish introduced the horizontal loom on which it is possible to weave much larger pieces not limited by the arm reach of the weaver. You can find a number of weavers on horizontal looms in Mitla and in the city, particularly in the Barrio of Xochimilco. The Triqui women you can see weaving near Santo Domingo and in the mercado de Artesanías are using a telar de cintura, a form of which is used in all the villages which produce traditional textiles. You can find in the stores and markets beautiful examples of work from all the seven regions of the state.

Natural Attractions
El Tule is the fabulous tree in the village of Santa María del Tule, about 10 kilometers along the road to Teotitlan and Mitla. It is an ahuehuete well over 2000 years old and is as wide as it is tall - 50 meters. There are figures of lions, elephant, deer and others which you can see in the convolutions of the trunk and branches - some of the more imaginative claim as many as 50 different figures.

Hierve el Agua is a lovely site with thermal pools and "petrified waterfalls" of calcium carbonate deposits just above Mitla - well worth a visit. There is a Tourist Yu'u cabin there for those who wish to spend more time with nature; information about these cabins in several villages can be obtained from the state tourism office at the corner of Independencia and García Vigíl, across from the Post Office.

Beach
Oaxaca has more than 500 kilometers of beaches, among them Puerto Escondido with its surfer's paradise on Zicatela beach and their "training ground" at Carrizalillo, as well as Puerto Angelito and the Playa Principal. Here you will find plenty of hotels of all categories, restaurants, bars and lots of action. The more recently developed area at Bacocho near the airport is much quieter and more expensive.

Seventy kilometers down the coast is the turnoff to Puerto Angel, a lovely little horseshoe bay where there are still some working fishermen and several hotels and restaurants. This is also the entrance to the famous/infamous Zipolite, with a lovely beach and a dangerous undertow, nice restaurants and a nudist area (illegal but tolerated) frequented by every possible type. Not far away is the small village of Mazunte which is actively supporting the sea turtle reserve. There are no tourist accomodations but it is worth a visit.

Isthmus of Tehuantepec
The villages of Tehuantepec and Juchitan are important Zapotec communities which conserve age-old traditions, including the velas which are celebrated several times per year (see calendar). The nearby ruins of Guiéngola are also worth a visit.

The industrial port of Salina Cruz is just 18 kilometers from the junction of highways 200 and 190 and is the Pacific end of the often proposed land bridge to join the Pacific and Gulf of Mexico.

Beyond Juchitan is La Ventosa where the winds blow across the narrowest part of Mexico - only about 220 kilometers to the Atlantic (Caribbean) via highway 185 to Coatzacoalcos, Veracruz where highway 180 goes on to Tabasco and the Yucatan Peninsula. Here you will also find entrances into the tropical forest of the Chimalapas.